Friday, April 29, 2011

The Energizer

An unplanned afternoon of climbing at the Pit turned into an unplanned send of something I've been working on for a long time, "The Energizer." Rumored to have been put up none other than John Sherman solo, this climb has been really hard for me. The pit was the first place I climbed in Flagstaff, and this was one of the first climbs I tried. I got shut down really hard then, and have continued to get shut down hard, even up to two weeks ago (and on top rope). Jason and I decided to head out after work this afternoon, as he has been working on this climb for 7 years. After doing some warm up laps on Mr. Slate we decided to go for it. It was my turn first and with really low expectations I started up. Surprisingly the friction on this normally greasy climb felt great, and I rapidly pulled through the starting moves and up to the big throw. The same throw that we used to fall from repeatedly. I hit it static, and shocked tried to decide what to do next. I tried some new beta using a two finger pocket, and almost pulled the crux. After one hang I finished the rest of the climb! I'd never one hung, or two or three hung the climb before so this progress was really exciting. Jason's first go was a one hang, and then he got back on and got it clean. It was super inspiring to watch him fight his way through the crux and fight the pump to the finish. After two more tries I also fought my way through!!!! I feel as if I have finally broken the 5.12 barrier, as this was my third in two weeks. It is good to feel progression and to feel healthy!!!

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Inspiration for the summer climbing season

The Sedona season has pretty much wrapped up. I'm still looking forward to some evening towers in the warmer weather, but for the most part it's time to shift focus back to the forks, peaks, etc... Surprisingly I've recently gotten back into sport climbing and it's been a blast. This has in turned inspired me to actually train a little and try to really break into the next level. For those that know me, I'm not one to train, and have self labeled as an elitist trad climber, mainly because of my lack of strength on sport and bouldering. When I bouldered and sport climbed more I felt as if every time I got strong I would get hurt.

Recently, and what will lead me into the second part of this post, is a change of diet. I've changed my diet to heavily represent food without many ingredients that is mostly unprocessed, and cut eating out back to less than a few times a month. Long story short, I've lost wait, and in turn have finally broken into the 5.12 barrier without getting hurt. So far all these years a simple diet change would have resulted in less injuries! Pretty common knowledge, and something I should have realized years ago. I've also cut down on my drinking, which for those who know, also wasn't exactly helping my climbing. This is all part of one of my next journeys and that is to try to almost completely localize my diet, and reshift my time into learning how to make things that I would have had to buy.

Inspired partially because my unexpected strength gain in climbing and partially from a book by Juliet Shor Plenitude I've decided to spend my free time (non market time) by expanding my knowledge of activities such as sewing, beer making, baking, carpentry, pretty much any skill that would allow me to become more efficient, save money, and find some "flow" in everday life.
Finally, I'd like to minimize my waste as much as possible, which I believe in turn will save me a bunch of money and force me to actually commit to the activities I just talked about. So to end this post, and to start a journey, some recent climbing pics!