Friday, April 29, 2011
An unplanned afternoon of climbing at the Pit turned into an unplanned send of something I've been working on for a long time, "The Energizer." Rumored to have been put up none other than John Sherman solo, this climb has been really hard for me. The pit was the first place I climbed in Flagstaff, and this was one of the first climbs I tried. I got shut down really hard then, and have continued to get shut down hard, even up to two weeks ago (and on top rope). Jason and I decided to head out after work this afternoon, as he has been working on this climb for 7 years. After doing some warm up laps on Mr. Slate we decided to go for it. It was my turn first and with really low expectations I started up. Surprisingly the friction on this normally greasy climb felt great, and I rapidly pulled through the starting moves and up to the big throw. The same throw that we used to fall from repeatedly. I hit it static, and shocked tried to decide what to do next. I tried some new beta using a two finger pocket, and almost pulled the crux. After one hang I finished the rest of the climb! I'd never one hung, or two or three hung the climb before so this progress was really exciting. Jason's first go was a one hang, and then he got back on and got it clean. It was super inspiring to watch him fight his way through the crux and fight the pump to the finish. After two more tries I also fought my way through!!!! I feel as if I have finally broken the 5.12 barrier, as this was my third in two weeks. It is good to feel progression and to feel healthy!!!